Film Developing in Lansing, Michigan

Film Developing FAQs

• What's the difference between 35mm, 120, 110, and APS film?

  They're different film formats, mainly in size and shape.
  • 35mm: The most common. Works in point-and-shoot and SLR cameras.
  • 120 (Medium Format): Larger negatives for higher image quality. Used in professional cameras.
  • 110: Small film for pocket cameras. No longer made.
  • APS: An older, rare cartridge film.

• How do I know what kind of film I have?

  Check the canister for markings. Still unsure? Bring it in and we'll help you figure it out.

• Will I get digital scans, prints, or both?

  It's up to you! Our pricing is structured to make it easy to add a set of prints to your order. There's nothing quite like a print from film, so we always recommend both. We produce just about any size print up to 40x60" on a variety of archival paper and media options.

• Will you correct color and exposure, or do you scan film as-is?

  We do a general color and density enhancement on all scans to ensure your images look their best.

• How does mail-in film developing work?
  1. Place your order online. Choose your services and select "Mail In" at checkout.
  2. Pack your film. Put your rolls in a padded envelope or small box with your order number inside.
  3. Ship it to us. Send to The Camera Shop, 6006 Pennsylvania Ave, Lansing, MI 48911. We recommend a tracked shipping method.
  4. Get your scans. We'll email a download link as soon as your film is scanned, usually within 1-3 business days of arrival.
  5. Get your negatives back. If you chose to keep your negatives, we'll return them by USPS First Class Mail.
• How do I place and pay for a mail-in film order?

  Mail-in orders are placed and paid for on our website, the same way as in-store drop off. At checkout, choose "Mail In" instead of "In Store" and you'll be taken to the payment page to complete your order. Payment can only be taken through our website.

• Can film be pushed or pulled during development?

  We don't offer push or pull processing on site. It is available through an offsite service as an option for B&W and C-41 film. Please allow an extra 2-3 weeks for this service.

• How is developed film shipped back to me?

  Developed film is shipped back via USPS First Class Mail.

• Why do my image files say 72 dpi when I paid for high resolution scans at 300 dpi?

  It comes down to how different software reads image files. Our standard resolution scans are 300 DPI at an 8x10 print size, which is true high resolution. Some programs display the file as 72 DPI at a much larger size (like 40x24 inches). That doesn't mean the quality is lower, it's just how the image dimensions are interpreted digitally. Our high-resolution scans are 600 DPI at 8x10. Many of our commercial clients stopped offering separate high-res options because our standard scans were better than the high-res files they used to get from other labs. If you ordered 300 DPI scans, that's exactly what you received.

• Do I have to pay for scans or prints at the time of my film processing order?

  Yes. All lab services are paid in full at the time the order is placed.

• What could cause faint images, poor color, or grainy photos on my negatives?

  Faint images can be caused by a camera's metering system being out of calibration, expired film, film left in a hot car, or incorrect camera settings. Color film usually performs best when shot at half of the suggested ISO/ASA rating. Poor color can come from the film choice (professional film is made for studio work and has less contrast, while amateur film adds contrast and color), old or expired film, or film exposed to heat. Grainy images are usually caused by underexposure, either by accident or from a camera meter that needs calibration. High ISO/ASA film can also look grainy, and so can excessive agitation when hand developing.

• Is cross-processing offered for film?

  Cross-processing is available from E-6 to C-41, and from B&W to C-41.

• Can altered, cinema, remjet, or boiled films be developed?

  No. We can't process film that has been altered with chemical baths, or cinema and remjet-backed films.

• What happens to blank film after processing?

  Whether your negatives are returned is an option you choose when placing your order. If your film is blank, we'll notify you by email, but negatives are only returned if you selected that option at the time of ordering.

• What causes vertical or horizontal reddish or yellow bands on negatives?

  Reddish bands are usually caused by worn-out foam light seals on the camera's back door. Most 35mm cameras date from the 1980s, and the foam used by most camera manufacturers turns sticky and falls apart over time. That lets daylight leak in and expose the film, causing the streaks.

• What could cause my negatives to be blank, clear, or show no exposure?

  Most often, the film didn't advance through the camera. Many 35mm cameras have mechanical frame counters that keep counting even if the film isn't attached correctly. Watch the rewind knob turn as you advance to confirm the film is moving. Another common cause is a shutter that doesn't open correctly, which happens with older cameras that are damaged, gummed up with age, or broken.

• Is film developing refundable if my roll is blank or has very few images?

  Developing and scanning take the same lab time whether a roll has 1 image or 36, so pricing stays the same. If a roll is completely blank and scanning can be skipped, we issue a partial refund.

• Why might pictures on my negatives overlap or be too far apart?

  Spacing problems are caused by an issue with the camera's film advance system. Have your camera checked by a repair technician.

• What should I do if I didn't receive my scans on time?

  Most rolls are developed and scanned within 1-3 business days. Need it sooner? Ask about 1-hour rush service when you drop off. Feel free to call the lab to check on your order.